Short version: an omega isn't a chain in the normal sense. It's a row of little flat plates crimped next to each other on a wire, so what you get is one smooth solid band. It doesn't hang, it holds a curve on its own. You put it on and it sits in an oval around your neck like a collar. Some people love that. Some people put it on and go, oh, it sticks out. Both of those are the same chain doing the same thing.
How it's made
Think of a lot of tiny flat links shaped like brackets, pressed tight against each other with no gap, and a bendy core running through the middle holding them in line. The outside is smooth, almost like a strip of metal. It bends one way fine. Try to twist it and it won't go.
That's the thing to know before you buy one. It frames your neck, it doesn't drape on it.
Omega, herringbone, snake
People mix these up because they're the three smooth ones.
- Omega is stiff and round if you cut it. Keeps its shape.
- Herringbone is flat and floppy. Lies on your chest, and it'll kink if you fold it.
- Snake is round and bends everywhere. More like a cord.
Want the chain to make the shape, omega. Want it to follow you, one of the other two.
Width and weight
We go from 1.3mm up to 8mm, mostly 16, 18, 20 inch. Omega wears shorter than you think because it stands off your neck instead of lying on it. That's why 16 and 18 are the normal sizes and you basically never see a 24.
- 1.3 to 2.2mm, 5 to 16 grams. Looks like a wire. Good under a slide pendant, or alone if you like it minimal.
- 4 to 4.4mm, 14 to 20 grams. Now it looks like an omega. You can see the band, still comfortable.
- 6 to 8mm, 20 to 29 grams. That's a collar. Nothing on it, neck open.
Pendants
Omega was made for slide pendants, the kind with a wide flat bail that slides along. A pendant with a regular round bail usually won't even go over anything above 2mm, and on a wide omega it looks off anyway, a little loop sitting on a big smooth band. So check your bail first. If you just want a pendant chain in general, this isn't really it, this one covers which ones are.
Finishes
Sterling, 14kt gold plated over sterling, and a two-tone. All 925 underneath. Omega actually shows a finish off better than most chains, because it's one flat surface, so gold plate reads like a gold band instead of a lot of little gold links. Same thing we say about every plated chain though. It's a coating over silver. It wears at the clasp and where it rubs. You can get it re-dipped. The silver under it is solid.
Taking care of it
Here's the catch. You can't fold it. Bend it sharp or sit on it in a pocket and it creases, and a creased omega stays creased. Lay it flat or hang it, every time. Other than that it's easy, nothing to snag, wipes clean.
The clasp is usually a box clasp with a safety catch instead of a lobster. That's the right clasp for a stiff chain. It's not a cheap clasp, it's just a different one.
Who it's for
Someone who wants the chain to be the whole thing. It's dressier than a rope or a Cuban, more jewelry than street. Thin omega with a slide pendant is a classic look. Wide omega by itself is a lot of presence without being iced out.
Questions we get
Why does my omega stick out from my neck?
It's supposed to. That's what it does. If it sticks out too far it's too long, go down two inches.
Can a kinked omega be fixed?
A jeweler can sometimes get a little out. Usually not all of it. Store it flat and you won't have to find out.
Is it strong?
Against pulling, yes. Against folding, no. It's the opposite of a rope, which you can tie in a knot and shake back out.
Do men wear these?
The 4 to 6mm silver on its own, yes. It's a clean look and you don't see it much, which is kind of the point.
Everything's in the omega collection. If you're still deciding between the smooth ones, herringbone and snake are there too.